On the other side are low, whitewashed tables, and a counter backed by shelves of the most amazing-looking bread.
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It’s part wine shop, part café, with a long, high wood table in front of shelves of vino for tastings. A sign (in English) proclaims “Be nice or get out”-how can you not love a place like that? There’s a wide variety of salads, pizzas, and wok dishes, and my salad with sesame-coated chicken, cherry tomatoes, and soy-honey dressing is washed down with the most amazing ginger lemonade in creation (their lemonades also come in mint and other flavors).Īnother lovely little spot is Pain et Vin, a wonderful place that opened in late 2013. Indoor tables are painted aqua, yellow, brown, and green. I start in typical Palermo style with lunch in Bartola Corner, which the ever-observant Kenny has spotted, and it’s a delight. Mainly, though, Palermo is an area to enjoy the good life, to sit over coffee, have a good meal, dance the night away, or stroll the verdant streets. Meanwhile, the Museum of Decorative Arts is housed in an early 20th-century mansion that was built in the French style and is furnished lavishly with antiques and other collectibles. Palermo is the home of the Evita Museum, which contains displays ranging from documents to photos to fabulous gowns-a must for any Evita lover! There’s also the Museum of Latin American Art (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano Buenos Aires or MALBA), where you’ll find a stunning collection of (mainly) 20th-century Latin American art, from surrealism to modernism to photography. The boundaries between them are a little vague, and there seems to be a lot of Palermo that isn’t part of either, but you’ll sense when you’re in Soho and when you’re in Hollywood. The Palermo district is divided into two sections, Soho and Hollywood, with Soho being the prettier part and the one where most of the little cafés and bars are, and Hollywood feel more urban, home to some of Buenos Aires’ finest dining spots. Plaza Serrano is the center of Palermo (well, at least Palermo Soho). If Recoleta is Fifth Avenue, Palermo is the West Village, with shops every five feet and bars or cafés between them.
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From here I head to the huge Palermo district, the most fabulous part of town (and the gayest) with its pretty plazas, vibrant café and bar life, and tree-lined streets.